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#19

First of all thanks for the Website it helped me decide on buying my Duramax. I've had it for 8600 miles and 4 months. The only problem is the master cylinder leaks but works good. I've had to pull stalled cars out of traffic and I couldn't tell they were back there. My whole family loves the truck. Its a 4 door crew cab long bed. In the past four months I've had over 12 Ford Power stroke owners including the manager of the Kenworth dealership in Dallas stated he wished he had waited for the Duramax instead of buying the Power Stroke. I had a shop teacher in Post Texas tell me his 6 cylinder dodge works real good but wish he had the Duramax cause its much quieter but he gets real good gas mileage on his dodge. I get about 650 miles out of a 34 gallon tank on the long bed, a little less on the 27 gallon short bed. A real comfort for the kids is the folding back seat in the crew cab. Some people ask why get the long bed and I say How long is a piece of 4 X 8 Plywood or a ! 2 X 4?

#18 Subject: Dodge V-10 Truck Motor

- I look forward to getting your newsletter.
- I am considering buying a new Dodge 3/4 ton 4X4 extended cab short box pick-up. I like the 360 motor as it is tried and true but it will only tow an 8100 lb trailer with the 4:10 axle. What do you think of the V-10 engine. It sounds like a good buy but I know nothing about this engine. Are there any major problems with this engine? Is is a reliable power plant? I plan to tow a large boat (7000 lbs) long distances and do not want to get the wrong rig. How about the transmission Dodge puts behind the V-10. Is it a good transmission?
- I would appreciate your advice on this before I spend big bucks!
Dave W.

Hi Dave, The V-10 in the Dodge truck was designed for the Viper. Dodge ended up using it in the truck first. The people I know who use the Dodge 8.0L V-10 are happy about reliability, the only problem is gas mileage. With a 7000 # trailer you could use the 3.55 rear axle ratio. A V-10 has a high RPM band which will help the auto transmission shift less than in the diesel. I don't recommend Dodge's auto behind the Cummins, but I haven't heard of unusual problems with their auto behind gas engines. Another thing get the trailer towing group or at least a tranny cooler for the automatic. Here is a message board about the Dodge transmission. Click here

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#17 Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 2:15 PM

Sir
I have ordered a 2002 4x2 long bed Ram 1500 Quad cab with automatic transmission. (Whattatruck!!) In your opinion how much payload can it safely handle with the addition of airbags? With airbags AND beefing up the springs? I have ordered the truck with 4.7 V8 and 3.55 rear end. Also with 4wheel antilock disc brakes. Your response will be very much appreciated as I plan to load it with pop-up, slide-in camper. Your input, I am sure, will be helpful in answering the question I face as to how heavy a camper I should get, while allowing for the weight of all my gear and passengers, etc. Thanks very much
Tony
P.S. I am eager to read your planned review of this truck on your website.

Hi Tony,

Dodge says your payload is 1570#'s. That is people cargo and fuel. The newer popup campers usually weigh 1000#'s or less. The 1570# payload is for warranty purposes. Axle air bags and extra springs help level out your truck under a load but they don't increase what your axle bearings will hold. Depending on the springs or bags you buy they can add 500 to 1000#'s to the payload. You could haul 2000#"s but you didn't do it all the time. If you just ordered your truck, you should be able to call the dealer and have the trailer tow group added to get the tranny cooler. If you ever decide to pull a trailer you will be ready and the tranny cooler will save problems latter. Let me know how the truck works for you. Good Truck'n. MT

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#16 Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 3:00 PM
 Subject: Payload of F250 vrs. F350

 Hello Mr Truck person,
Appreciated your response to my last prod. Please indulge me uno mas. Been doing a lot of careful homework lately. Here is what I come up with. Of course, Keemosabe, this is all gonna finish with my request for your feedback. Now having said that, Ford specs out the '02 trucks thusly: Front Axle (rating @ ground): 5200 Lbs for both F250 & F350; Rear axle: 6,084 (F250); 6,830 (F350). Both vehicles with Single rear wheels. Springs are APPARENTLY the same in both. Curb weight for both vehicle appears to be within 5 lbs of each other. Oddly enough the F250 weighs in at 7005 lbs with 4 speed and diesel; F350: 7000 lbs. Simple math can verify these figures using Ford's published figures, assuming curb weight (as Ford defines it) is GVWR minus max payload. (By the way, same simple calculations show weight of diesel to be 595 lbs.)

Something else to factor in: Max payload for F250 is published to be: 1795 lbs; F350: 2930 (4 speed w/ diesel) Now, if all the above lines up, where's the beef?? Surely with your close ties with Ford you have approached them on the matter. How can they reconcile this issue? Regarding the F350, where does the heavier rating for the rear axle come from? The increased payload?? Is this possible in terms of mechanics alone? What could they have done to effect these increases w/o adding weight? I, for one, would like to see this issue brought to a conclusion one way or the other that we can stop the speculation: are we looking in the throat of a hoax, perhaps, where Ford got caught up in an unsolvable engineering/production issue relative to constraints based on time and money and the result is identical models, but for name only, OR is there a simple, reasonable explanation? So what DOES Ford say, Kent? An has there been any further light shed on the this mystery since you last addressed the matter? Maintain, Russ

Hi Russell, Several places in the emails that are posted on my site have I gone into detail about this issue. I truly understand how confusing it is. I'm actually the only one I've heard explain how close the F250 and F350 are. I have heard several salespeople tell people about more leafs in the springs, which isn't true, it was true in the 97 model and older. And Ford does give a different weight rating on the springs and axles but for what I don't know.  And GM does the same thing. They get rapped up in have the bragging rights to more configurations. The F250 has a GVWR of 8800#'s and the F350 has a GVWR of 9900#'s. The axle rating is about 900#'s more for the F350 on the same axle. But the truth lies in the trailer tow ratings that are the same. Some places Ford posts 100# heavier fifth wheel trailer weight on the F350.

In the 97 model  and older the F250 and F350 had different axles and springs but not since the new Super Duty came out in 98 as a 99 model. It's up to the manufacture to decide what weight rating to put on their axles and springs in relation to their warranties and the SAE and government guidelines. I have discussed it with Ford. They could put higher limits on axles and springs and horsepower too. And now Ford has increased horsepower and torque to keep up with GM all with computer chips. As in most marketing done by the "big boys" the truth lies in-between what they say and what specs show. I have always had a problem with the posted trailer weights from manufactures. The combined vehicle weight stays constant but to do that they give you a heavier trailer weight in combination with a lighter truck. For instants a 4x2regular cab V-10 gas engine will show under warranty being able to pull a larger trailer than a 4x4 crew cab diesel. And we know that's not true. But that's how it's figured by the manufactures.

I want a heaver truck to pull trailers to have some leverage to control the trailer. So in the end common sense beats marketing hands down! These are some of the reasons for my web site. Trucks are complicated and confusing and most people for some odd reason passed down for generations, think that the salespeople know which truck they need. NOT! Don't get discouraged, as much as I would like to change things all I can do is give my opinions and help people see the truth which is why I don't take advertising on my web site from manufactures. I do take them up on invitations to tour their plants, test drive their trucks and give them my views. Most of the weight limits manufactures put on their trucks are conservative to avoid breakdowns.

On my farm I was loaded above the weight limits most of the time. My trucks had to pay for themselves. But today in the cities with so many lanes side by side and in the mountains I stay a lot closer to the proper load limits. It's just not worth the risk and breaking an axle or burning a clutch. I've seen universal joints break and watched drive shafts bounced off the pavement and swing around coming close to hitting the fuel tanks. Now I find other ways to get my thrills!Thanks for your email. I hope my rambling explains my position. MT

Hello Kent,
Thanks very much for your input. I very much
appreciate the consideration basic to your reply. You
are too kind. You're right about salesmen. Most don't
know their bleep from a sinkhole. Wanna get confused,
ask a salesman. Sooooo . . . from your reply, I gather
you conclude that it's best to stay within recommended
allowances re payload specs, regardless of suspect
comparison relative to POSTED specs--to be safe. I
agree; 'tis better to err on the side of caution. But
that blows my plans for the slide in camper I want; Or
does it? Please toss this around and tell me
whattayathink: Camper DRY weight is 2700 lbs. On top
of wet load adjustment--(what, 300 lbs?) I'll have, 800
lbs, maybe, including my bony ass and all passengers,
and cargo. (That puts me at drive-away payload of
approx 3800 lbs, right?) The truck: F350, Crew Cab,
diesel, Long bed, 4x4, 4 speed, camper package. SINGLE
REAR WHEELS. Truck specs out with Payload package of
2,930 lbs max payload. (GVWR 9,900). That leaves me
900 lbs over the limit, right? What, air bags? Dual
rear wheels? Although posted max payload for same
truck with dual wheels is 4,120, the obvious solution,
I want to avoid this option if possible. Air bags?
Please, Kent, your feedback.

Thanks very much, padner, Russ

Hey Russell, for heavy campers I like duallies the best. They are a pain because they are 8 ft. wide. Extra tires make me feel safer. On the new Ford Super Duties, which started with the 99 models, have longer springs to improve the ride. But this also allows more spring travel. Campers are notorious for side wind. In these newer Fords, they move too much side to side with a camper. I recommend air bags on the rear. This should stabilize it. This is true whether a single or dual rear wheel. Good Luck, MT

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#15 Sent: Friday, November 09, 2001 4:31 PM  Subject: New Truck Question

Wonderful website! Straight forward and to the point. Nothing better than that. You're site was the first place I thought of when I came across a strange thing with a truck. My neighbor just brought home a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton 2wd LS extended cab with 78 miles on it. Nice truck. He asked me to help him guide it into his smallish garage and then we stood around outside talking trucks etc. He noticed that the drivers side of his truck is about an inch and a half lower than the passenger side. Must be his floor out of level. Nope, it drops about 1/4 inch in 10 feet side to side. Tires low on one side? Nope. So we pulled it out, checked the floor for level and then backed the truck in and sure enough, driver's side still lower an inch and a half, front and rear. We measure at the bumpers, mirrors, door sills and the tire-to-fender clearances. The bed is square and plumb with the rest of the truck and he has nothing loaded inside or out, no aftermarket add-ons either. Surely there's a reasonable explanation. Full tank of gas maybe? It's the only thing we could think of other than something being out of whack, which is doubtful. He hopes. Anyway, just wanted to throw that your direction and again, let you know that your site is a hit for me and all the ones I pass it on to. Keep up the great job.

Randy H.

Hi Randy, Thanks for visiting my web site. The fuel tank is between the frames now, so I doubt that would make the truck lean that much. At 78 miles the springs aren't as relaxed as they will be when the truck is past break-in. On some trucks they come with plastic blocks between the springs when they are shipped from the factory to take some of the bounce out when traveling on the trains. Those are supposed to be taken out before delivery. Check to see if those were missed on the right front. If that isn't it, I would show the truck to the dealer and get it checked. That won't cost anything. Your neighbor might even get a free tank of gas for his trouble. Let me know what you find out. Thanks MT

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#14 Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 11:14 AM

Subject: Dully or not?

I'm looking for a 4x4 diesel, automatic, long box, crew Cab under $20,000 ! I had a 1996 I was going to llk at for $14,900. I have two questions; Do I really need the dully wheels to haul a heavy 11 foot Camper? What would be the best truck in the 96-98 range. My mechanic says that the GMC is the heaviest built for the job!

Thanks! Tom O.

Hi Tom, thanks for visiting my site. I would suggest a dually if your trailer  weighs near 15k #'s and you drive in the mountains or dirt roads a lot. In the year range you suggest, if you are looking at a diesel, I would suggest the Ford Power Stroke over the GMC 6.5L diesel. In gas engines the Ford 7.5L and GMC 7.4L are both good engines. Dodge doesn't offer a crew cab in the heavy-duty trucks yet. I personally like the part-time 4x4 system better in Ford than the "live axle" system in GMC. The GMC also has and independent suspension in the front axle that makes the ride nicer but this gives you a lot more parts to wear out. The GMC in the 4x4 model also has CV joints like a car in the front axle. The Ford and Dodge have the universal joints which are cheaper and last longer. The CV joint has a rubber boot that keeps the dirt out but when that boot gets a hole in it, soon you can expect to replace the joint. The GMC will be cheaper, actually much cheaper if it is a diesel. GMC is now working on their new diesel engines to get out of last place, a place they have earned for decades. Good Truck'n, MT

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#13 Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 2:19 PM

Like your stuff. Please put me on your newsletter list. That Sturman (Sp?) valve sounds fetching. Is there any more news on the subject? Nonetheless, with such major, if not revolutionary, changes in diesel mechanics, it seems to me jury will be out for several years after its inception, if it ever does make it to market. Don't ya think? No? Yes? Funny to have read about it at this point in my life when my intentions are to buy a vehicle for the long terms--like 20 years. And a diesel was on the top of my list! So now I have to ask: in light of this news about big changes in diesel technology, maybe I should just get a less expensive used interim vehicle and wait out the new technology? What to do? What to do?  Any thoughts on this conundrum, Kent?? Thanks Russell

Hi Russell, thanks for reading my web site. I can't get Ford to comment on the new valve. So I'm sure a lot of marketing is being planned around the new diesel. The Sturman Valve was developed for the Apollo space mission. That dates it back a couple of decades. Mercedes Benz is working on something similar. The technology is less complicated than the valve train used today in engines. The computer than runs the valve and the electrical current running to the magnetic side of the valve will determine the dependability. The computers that messed up the luxury cars in the early eighties have been replaced with very reliable ones today. I wouldn't have a problem buying a new diesel today.

The new ones that should be out in the middle of the 2003 marketing year, (spring of 2004), will be quieter, smaller, more powerful and get better fuel mileage. It's going to be an exciting time in diesels. The Ford will come out first with the valve and then Mercedes could have their valve in Dodge trucks by 2007. In Europe, mainly because of the cost of fuel, diesels are everywhere. Cars and trucks with diesel engines are common. I suspect that is our future here. Some of the hybrid vehicles have electrical motors that are powered by diesels. One option would be to buy a diesel now and trade it off in 4 years. There will still be a market for used reliable diesels. And if you put on more than 80,000 miles in those 4 years, you can even pay for the extra cost of the diesel engine with saved fuel economy. Isn't this fun? All these exciting choices! Good Truck'n, MT

#12
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 5:41 PM
Subject: "Sweet" years on used F250's

> Kent,
> I am looking for an F250 for camping, commuting, hauling stuff around our mini farm and possibly snow plowing. My budget limits me to older vehicles and I don't mind doing 90% of the maintenance myself. So given all that what's your recommendation on years and models to shoot for? Oh, it needs to be xtra cab and I have my heart set on diesel.
> If you have a mailing list please add me to it.
>Many thanks, M.

Hi Matt,

93 was the first year of the turbo in the 7.3 diesel. So if you are going back that far get the 94. The Power Stroke, with direct injection and electronic fuel pump, came out the end of 94, so get a 95. I would also get the 5-speed manual in the older models. The C-6 and E4OD automatic transmissions were great for gasoline engines, but the diesel without a full
waste gate on the turbo and the torque was too much for the earlier auto's. In the 99 and newer, Power Strokes have full waste gates and the 4R100 has a larger torque converter and 2 bigger pumps and better bearings. If you go back into the 80's you will be better off to get a Cummins in the Dodge. But especially in Dodge get the 4 or 5-speed manual transmission. You will probably have to replace the box if it was used much on an older Dodge. Hopefully you will find a mid 90's F350 Super Cab that was just used to pull an RV occasionally. The Ford F350 in 97 and back had the mono beam axle and overload springs on the rear axle. The F250 had a twin traction beam axle which is hard to align. Be sure to check out the radiator and cooling system. The older diesels needed special care on cooling maintenance. Good Luck. Kent (MrTruck)

#11
From: B. B
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:09 PM
Subject: toyota truck

I just ran across a real clean 1992 Toyota 4x4 it's the deluxe not the SR5. It has 123,000 miles, but not a scratch on it. What can you tell me about engine life, transmission problems, general overall comments on the vehicle. Also,what reasonable price should the guy be asking?

Hi B,
The original Toy trucks were the best. When Toyota decided they had to have a name for their truck and called them Tacoma in the mid 90's they lost something. It was then that Consumer Reports placed Ford Ranger on top of the compact truck category. So the Toyota trucks in the year you are looking at are the best you can buy in the little trucks. They usually sell well too. I would see what the average guy is asking in the local paper to see what price is normal. There are a lot of those trucks to go 500,000 or more miles. 123,000 miles is just braking in. They don't have a lot of power and I wouldn't pull much with it. Japanese trucks have had aluminum heads the longest so be aware of your temperature gauge. If you let one get hot whether it's caused by a water leak or water pump, you can warp the head. Try and find out from the owner if they changed the head gasket and timing chain. I think my Toyota truck from the 80's had a 22R 4 cylinder engine. I never could wear it out so I finally sold it. Good Luck. Kent (MrTruck)

#10
From: W. R
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 10:32 PM
Subject: truck for slide-in camper

Kent-
What a great site! Nice job...
I'm new to trucks & hauling, but I've been scouring the internet doing 'research' cuz I want to buy a used truck that will haul a light slide-in camper within the next month or so. At first I thought I wanted a F250 SD, but after learning about GVWR, I don't think the F250 is a viable option. Am I correct in that assumption? So now I'm looking into the F350 SD Crew Cab w/ the V10. Man, what a truck! Don't think I can afford anything newer than the '99.5, but I'm finding that there just aren't as many used ones out there - compared to the F250's. Is that because there just aren't as many sold? Do people hang onto them longer? Or, am I just not looking in the right places? Any help appreciated...thanks in advance. B.R.

Hi Bill,

F250's are a thousand bucks cheaper. In 1997 and back the F250 and F350 had different springs and axles. Now they don't. Ford says the F350 has 1100#'s more GVWR. But there isn't any difference in the trucks. Count the leaf springs, measure anything you want. Ford puts magic springs on the F350 and charges you $1000 more. In the 99 model Ford had them all jacked up 3 more inches and would lower them one time under warranty if they were too tall for you. In 2000 and 2001 they lowered the F250 but not the F350. I guess it makes them look bigger or something. So if you buy a truck with some factory warranty left, the extra GVWR may help with warranty issues but if you look at trailer towing capacity between the F250 and the F350 they are exactly the same for a pull type bumper trailer and within 100#'s on a fifth wheel trailer. What does that tell you. Now don't get me wrong, I like the Super Duty Ford's. I just want to get something for the extra cost on the F350. If you go to a F350 dually then you do get one size bigger axles and brakes though. When Ford changed the Super Duty 99 model and newer, they made the springs longer which gave them a dramatically better ride. But they also give the trucks more axle travel especially when hauling a heaver camper. I recommend using air bags on the rear axle. Even with the factory camper package, the truck just dips too much with a heavy camper on it. Much more than the older models. The air bags on the axles are the best, and cheapest way I know to solve this. Good Luck, Kent (MrTruck

#9
Subject: Superchips?
Date: Tue, Dec 19, 2000, 4:53 PM

Kent, do these chips work? are they hard on an engine? do they void a warranty? I have a 98 Ford with a 4.6L V-8 and at times it's a little underpowered, is this an option. Thanks Chuck

Hi Chuck,

Sorry this took so long. I had a few deaths in the family in December. My web site is producing more emails than I can answer in a month. About the computer chips, any time you pump up the engine it will put more strain on the driveline. They can void the warranty. I know of people who pull the modulator when they take it in for warranty service. I would say the safest way for more power is in the breathing. Put a K&N air cleaner on your truck and dual exhaust. I wouldn't go to the expense of headers but put on 5" pipes and low restriction mufflers. Leave the catalytic converters alone too. Those modifications shouldn't void the warranty.

Good Luck Kent (MrTruck)

#8 January 19, 2001 3:24 PM
Subject: ford explorer

I have a Ford Explorer. It has a transmission problem. When you let up on the accelerator it free wheels. If I pull a trailer in the hills it won't hold back. Am I wrong to think I can pull a trailer with an automatic ? Sport UTILITY may be a miss term. A man from a transmission shop said the transmission is too small to do any pulling. also has about the same tranny as an escort. Bad News. The problem I am having may not need the whole tranny to be overhauled however tranny shops will do the whole thing needed or not. I am thinking of buying a dodge. Do you have an opinion ? Thanks
D. R.
ps.it happened at about 90 000

Hi D.,

It sounds like your torque converter is going out or leaking oil. How much you can pull depends on a lot of things. The vehicle needs to have a transmission cooler and the right axle ratio. An Explorer equipped right can pull 6000#. They have leaf springs on the rear axle which helps stabilize a trailer. A lot of SUV's have coil springs on the rear axle which tends to sway more. In my experience if a vehicle is equipped right an automatic will
give you less problems than the clutches you'll replace. The EPA took the Asbestos out of the clutches, so they don't have the friction properties they use too. The torque converter on the automatic transmission also doubles the torque coming out of the engine. And the newer automatics have a lock up torque converter that's locks up mechanically like a clutch and pressure plate do. You will want to get your torque converter replaced or
some day the free wheeling will be all it will do and it's a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the clutch packs and pumps. Good Luck. (MrTruck)

#7
December 30, 2000 4:38 PM Subject: decisions, decisions

> Hi,
>
> I'm a general contractor here in Hawaii and need a knowledgeable comparison of Ford, Dodge & Chevy in a awed full-size. I will be putting  racks on it, but won't be trailering anything so either 6 cyl or v-8 should work for me; I have a beat-up '91 F-150, 6 cyl that my workers drive, no problems with that vehicle, rebuilt engine at 120,000, but am considering the Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab v-8 automatic (prefer std but nobody here sells it) Any info or preferences among these 3 manufacturers or any reason I should be wary of the Dodge? Would appreciate your comments.
> D. Maui
>
Hi David

I think you would be fine with the Dodge. It should be the cheapest of the three. Consumer Reports says that the Ford F150 is the best in class. In the 1/2 ton truck they are all pretty close. I personally like the Dodge 5.2L v-8, the 318 cu. On my web site I have answered emails comparing the three in 3/4 ton and larger. Chevy has been the best riding truck for decades. But in the 1/2 ton class you can get a long life out of any of them. Even the 4wd systems aren't that different. Save your money get the Dodge. They haven't had any major changes in years so they should have rebates and good prices. Here in Denver CO you can buy them for invoice minus the rebates.
Good Luck and a Happy New Year. MrTruck

#6
Dec 29, 2000, 9:12 AM
>
> Mrtruck, I have just purchased a 5th wheel trailer, 35.5 feet long. The gvwr is 13,500 lbs. with dual axels. I am trying to decide which size pickup to look for. I have never pulled a rig this large. I am leaning toward the new chevy diesel engine in a 3/4 ton. I will have to use this vehicle around town also. I am also looking at the crew cab. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
> thanks, John M.
>
Hi John,

I would wait on the Chevy truck until it has been out at least a year. They all start with bugs and they sell too high the first year. They also don't have enough parts inventory if something does brake it will take along time to fix. Until the Duramax is out of diapers I would recommend the Super Duty Ford F250 or F350. You bought a big trailer. I would recommend a dually
except they are a pain to drive around town. Your trailer weight puts you at the limits of the 3/4 tons. They will pull it fine but the more options the truck has the more it weighs. The highest trailer towing capacity as warranted by the factory is a 2-wheel drive, regular cab. But that's up to you. I don't know of any manufacture who has warranty police who come out and weigh your trailer. Personally I like a heavier truck. The weight of the truck can help control the trailer, especially down hills.

Good luck and if you get an automatic remember to shut off the overdrive when you are pulling in the hills. MrTruck

 One stop truck shopping, comparing, buying, and selling, new or used. I highly recommend this great service.

#5 October 19, 2000 10:36 PM Subject: Questions on a new truck

I have a metal fab business that now requires weekly trips from here in Fraser, CO to Denver and back (over Berthoud Pass). I am often pulling a load somewhere around 8-10k lbs. Right now I have a 98 Dodge 3/4 ton V10 quad cab and an 18' bumper pull flatbed. After a summer of hauling these loads, I am ready to look for a different truck and trailer. I have had more than one trip down grade where I felt pretty uncomfortable. It just seems like I am using the brakes on the truck pretty heavily, and also the bumper pull trailer is kind of hairy when you have to react quickly to, for example, some idiot not paying attention.

Also, I am really tired of the 7 or 8 mpg that I get with this rig.
Anyway, here is what I am thinking: I would like to go to a diesel and possibly look at an exhaust brake. I realize that brakes are relatively cheap and you probably don't ever recover the cost of the exhaust brake, but I just hate smelling those truck brakes on the way down and wondering if they are going to hold up.

I also realize that I need to switch to a gooseneck trailer.
My question is this: what would be the best choice in a truck. My family would like a full crew cab, and I do use the 8' bed pretty often. Should I go with manual or automatic? With a gooseneck trailer, do I really need a 1 ton, or would a 3/4 ton work ok. The cost isn't so much different, but wouldn't the ride in the empty 1 ton be stiffer? Do you really think that a dually would be that important? I am worried that it would be a pain in the rear up here in Fraser. We drive on snow 6 months out of the year. How about limited slip?

OR, should I just forget about using a pickup truck entirely? I have priced used medium duty trucks (Ford and International) and they seem like a steal: 1996 or 1997 with less than 100k, 25k lb GVW, 16-20' stake beds. There are tons of them in Denver in the low $20k's. My diesel mechanic buddies say these trucks should be good for at least another 200k miles with very little maintenance. Maybe this is a better way to go??? Maybe I am just trying to get too much out of a pickup? When you put the numbers to it, the cost of a pickup and gooseneck trailer seem high compared to this alternative...
What do you think, Mr. Truck?
Thanks for your time. D. Z. Fraser Colorado

Hi D.,

I have pulled a 32' gooseneck for years behind a 3/4 ton and later a 1 ton dually on the plains. You have a totally different situation in the mountains. I have pulled a 36' gooseneck stock trailer in the mountains and remember it quite well. At night it seemed as if the deer were just waiting on the edge of the road to race me across the interstate! I went to a dually just for the braking advantage. My trailers were triple axles with electric brakes and I usually pulled on dirt roads that ate up the brakes and the magnets that activated them. With duals on the truck I could count on stopping where as I couldn't depend on the trailer brakes. On a dually verses a cab and chassis, the inside tires line up with the front tires so I could pull the outside duals of in case of deep snow. Generally duals are a pain if you don't need them. But as you describe 6 months of snow in Fraser, it would be nice to pull the duals off if you didn't pull a trailer down the mountain each week.

Later in my trailer adventures I did go to a 2-ton truck like your describing that I pulled my trailer daily with. Especially in the mountains when you are hauling each week, I would want all the gears I could find. Most of the 2-ton trucks will have 6 to 10 gears and look at the size of the brake drums on those puppies. Along with a larger clutch. They are made to be loaded all the time. My 2-ton gave me the least amount of trouble hauling loads and pulling trailers. I bought a 2 ton freight truck with a van box that we cut off and made a 20' flat bed out of. Then with that long of a box I was able to put the gooseneck ball closer to the end so I had a cargo area and could pull a trailer. Nothing beats a gooseneck or 5th wheel trailer for pulling; they track better and back up better. It's also nice to have a heavy truck pulling the trailer. It gives you more control when you brake going down hill.

If you decide you need a truck to use as your main vehicle and you want a crew cab, and since you are in the mountains, I would recommend a 6-speed manual transmission. The newer automatics on the Ford, Chevy and GMC have the same load rating whether it's manual or auto. Dodge has a lower load rating and horsepower rating on their automatics. But again in the mountains the more gears the better and you can leave it each gear longer when you are down shifting a manual transmission. The rest of the time diesels are a pain to shift all day if you are using it as a car. If you are only going to pull 10,000 #'s, a 3/4 ton will do. If you are in the future planning on hauling larger loads, then the 1-ton or larger would be better. Generally the factory dually or cab and chassis have larger brakes and the newer one's on the Ford, Chevy and GMC will be 4 wheel disc brakes which are great at getting rid of the extra heat generated braking down hill.

As for limited slip axles, I like them. I would think in Fraser with 6 months of snow they would come in handy especially when your truck is empty. I have friends who pull a lot in mud and snow in Eastern Colorado who won't buy a limited slip axle because they are spinning their tires a lot and wear out the clutch in the differential on the limited slip axle. On fuel mileage, the diesel can at times double the mileage of a gas engine and live dramatically longer. But they cost around $4000 more new. I had a gas engine in my 2-ton truck. That was 10 years ago. Now you will find mostly diesels in the 2-ton trucks your describing. On the 1-tons as far as ride, the dualies will bounce a little more when they are empty. But I am amazed at how well they ride now. 15 years ago an empty dually was like driving a basket ball! Good luck, I can help with more details and the actual buying of a 3/4 ton or 1 ton or 1 1/2 ton in Colorado.
MrTruck
 

#4 To: mrtruck@uswest.net
> Subject: best truck
> Date: Thu, Oct 12, 2000, 1:33 PM
>
> I am looking into replacing my 86 F250 diesel (that I bought new) w/ a 2000 or 2001 diesel. I have always been a Ford fan but now I am torn between the Dodge and the Ford Today, a friend told me that Chevy is coming out w/ a diesel by Isuzu. Now I am wandering about the Chevy. I will be pulling a 22ft. to 26ft maybe 28ft. tag a long trailer. I not sure yet as to the length. What ever I buy I want it fully loaded w/ an auto trans. Can you give me your opinion on each of these trucks?
> Thank you,
> Robert
>
Hi Robert,

This is a big question that would take a book to give it justice, but I'll give you the condensed version. I know everyone is talking about the Duramax in the Chevy's and GMC's made with Isuzu. It sounds interesting though I worry about aluminum heads on any diesel. I would wait a couple of years to let GM get the bugs out. They all start with bugs no matter what the TV ads say. And if you are a veteran truck person, you will remember the wonderful past diesels from GM especially the 5.7L V-8 gas/diesel. Which almost single handedly eliminated diesel sales in pickup trucks in the eighties. So I'm cautious with anything new, especially GM. Even Ford with the most popular pickup truck out there, had at least 5 or 6 annoying problems in the first 6 months of their "99" Super Duty series that replaced the Heavy Duty series in 1998. Most of those Fords had the "Power Stroke V-8" badge on the front fender closer to the headlights. The second series of "99's" had the "Power Stroke Diesel" badge on the front door and were the improved model.

When it comes to recommending the best truck, everyone has their opinion and few of us humans won't let facts get in our way. When I was growing up, my dad had a model 92 Massey combine and my uncle had a John Deere model 95. And of course we thought the Massey had to be the best combine around. Then a funny thing happened. I ended up helping my uncle harvest wheat one summer. I couldn't believe how easy the John Deere was to grease and work on. Everything you worked on, was on the outside where you could get to it. The Massey had everything buried to the inside. Since you always have to work on combines, I was impressed. But you know I never could convince my dad to buy a John Deere! That's how trucks are. They keep improving and if you get the latest model, (after their first year). You will like it much better than your old model.

I've owned all three trucks, Chevy, Ford, and Dodge, pulled with all three and for about 10 years have sold all three. And right now in the model years 1999, 2000 and 2001, I would say the most improved and best overall rated truck would be the Ford Super Duty. We know the new 2001 GM has more power and torque. And I like the Allison transmission, (why didn't they do this and use their own Detroit Diesel decades ago I don't know). This combination my work well. I like the gear driven water pump on the new Isuzu diesel like on the "big rigs". Isuzu has been making trucks forever. If you look at old movies from even World War 1, you can see Isuzu buses driving the Great Wall of China in around 1918. So they do have experience. I just want to see the aluminum heads with a couple of hundred thousand miles on them. And then there's the front suspension. GM likes bushings and CV joints. Which work great on cars. On trucks I like leaf springs and universal joints. All three trucks use the same 6 speed manual transmission. Dodge has detuned their diesel with the automatic transmission. To get Dodge's highest torque and horsepower, you have to get the manual transmission. Dodge has greatly improved their truck from the Power Wagons of the seventies. And Dodge was the first to see the need for a "real" diesel engine for which I'm grateful. I do like the manifold heater verses the glow plugs found in the Cummins diesel in the Dodge. I wish all three had the factory option of an exhaust brake as the Dodge. I'm not fond of the strut suspension in the front of the Dodge though. Talk about an expensive shock absorber. If you want to compare rear suspensions, go to a sale barn sometime and see the loaded trucks. Ranchers know how to load to the max and you will see the Ford and GM's sitting fairly level. The Dodge will be the one squatting the most and have the most "aftermarket springs" added to them. I hope that since Mercedes is now involved with Dodge, that the quality of their bodies will improve. If you had a Dodge truck in the seventies or eighties, compare the boxes from then till now and you will be happy. The last really heavy duty box that Ford or GM had was 1972. All three truck builders could use improvements in their boxes now. I would hate to drop a salt block in any of them.

On the latest Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 that began in early 1998, called the "99" model, this the 2001 being the 4th series to reach the market. They are totally different from the "97" Heavy Duty model's. Thicker frames, finally a intercooled diesel, mono-beam axles up front, (with camber adjustment finally, no more "Twin I-Beams" except on the 2-wheel drives), the only part-time 4x4 drive front axle that is "shift on the fly" you can buy from the factory, larger cab, 4-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic boosted brakes on the diesel, leaf springs on the front axle that are longer wider and arched differently, locking tailgate, finally a crank down spare tire, mirrors and side windows designed for trailers, larger windshield, a full waste gate on the turbo again, and a much improved automatic transmission that is used on 70% of the class A motor homes using a gas engine. These trucks drive like a 1/2 ton even when they are empty!

GM trucks may become the next leader depending on what Ford and Dodge do next. But I would stay with the proven winner this year. The Duramax will be in short supply this year and the Allison automatic even scarcer. And of course the first year will be the thousands "over retail sticker" year! Good luck. I can help you get whichever truck you choose.
Thanks MrTruck



#3 October 23, 2000 9:51 PM Subject: RE: Questions on a new truck
Kent-
Thanks for your reply. The information you gave is very helpful.
I have one other question: I mentioned that I have a metal fab business, and I have decided to build a new gooseneck trailer. It just so happens that we use a supplier for our regular business that also has a complete line of trailer parts. So, as I thumb through the catalogue, I see that you can go the vacuum/hydraulic route for trailer brakes instead of the conventional electric. I share your lack of complete confidence in electric trailer brakes, but I was wondering what you thought of the hydraulic jobs. My number one priority in all of this is to come up with something that will get us downhill safely.
Also, any other features that you really like on a trailer would be helpful. We plan to build a 24', and I am thinking that I will go with triple axles, probably 6000#. That should give us some extra margin for weight, and I am just guessing that the bigger the axle, the bigger and better the brakes? Thanks again,
David
Oh- I just remembered another question: What do you think of aftermarket exhaust brakes?

David,
I had 7000 # axles on my gooseneck and usually hauled 25,000#'s. The way we used to figure payload too clear ports and those wonderful portable scales in the old days, was you could haul what your axle rating was, because the weight of the trailer would transfer to the truck. I used triples because they were cheaper than tandem duallies which would have been the best. With triple axles, when you turn, the front and rear axle tires are in a severe bind. On a lower ply tire they can pop the bead. I would go with two axles. Also the tires throw things at each other, like nails and glass on trailer axles because they are close together. So the more axles the more flats.

I like the vacuum/hydraulic brakes. You usually see them on heavy-duty applications. Usually you have to go to at least a 7000# axle to get 8 bolt hubs that might match your truck wheel pattern. On the trailer you are building, I would use 8, 9, or 10,000# axles. And get slipper springs or torsion axles. Don't get what they put on most of the RV 5th wheel trailers, which is shackle springs with hangers, the bushings wear out way too often. Slipper springs are like what's on a semi, and torsion axles are on Air Stream trailers. They are an axle inside of square tubing surrounded with rubber. Torsion axles are the nicest, easiest to attach and of course the most expensive axles.

I like the aftermarket exhaust brakes. There are links to those sites at the bottom of page 2 on my site. But the truck manufacture warranties may not cover anything they can link to those brakes, so there is a gray area. It's an option on the Dodge from the factory. Some day if the competition between the manufactures gets close enough, we will see Jacob brakes like on the big rigs. If you get a new truck and you don't want to risk losing the warranty, with as much mountain hauling as you do I would get the 6 -speed manual and just down shift. The 4 wheel disc brakes on the Ford and GM will fade the heat better and cost about 1/2 as much for the brakes, plus your don't have to pull the rear axles to change the pads. Good luck and don't use those runaway truck ramps! MrTruck

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#2 To: "Ask Mr. Truck" <mrtruck@uswest.net>
> Subject: Tundra or F-250?
> Date: Sat, Oct 14, 2000, 1:18 PM
>
> Dear Mr. Truck,
> Please subscribe me to your newslettter.
 It's time to replace my '91 Toyota Xcab, which served me
extremely well for 9 years. I'd buy the new Tundra today, BUT the i-Force V8 is not available with a Manual Transmission! What to do?
> 1. Get the Tundra V6 ... No, I don't want to limp up hills.
> 2. Get the Tundra V8 and live with the auto tranny.
> 3. Get an F-250 XLT SuperCab Short Bed / 4x4 / 5.4 Triton V8 / 5-speed
Why not an F-150? I really don't like the body style. The F-250 is
probably more truck than I really need, but I can get it built just how I want it. I do a lot of mountain driving (thus the desire for a manual trans), and only tow infrequently -- small utility trailers, work equipment, or a ski boat. Also, if I go to Ford's buyerconnection and have the F-250 built as I like it, what should I know? What should I watch out for? They deliver it through the local dealer which I choose. How much does the dealer mark it up? If I'm looking at an MSRP of $30,030, how much will I really pay?
> Thanks for any thoughts you might provide.
> `jimb
>
Hi Jim,

Your 91 Toyota X-cab is one of those trucks that was built to last. I wish Toyota did that good of a job on the Tacoma. Toyota still makes quality trucks; just a notch lower as you can read about in Consumer Reports. When I was an auto broker for AAA, I sold several Tacoma's. Maybe Toyota just built the original "truck" to good! As with Super Bowl's nobody has won 3 in a row. Looking at Toyota's T-100 and the new Tundra, it would appear as if
Toyota was trying to use the same frame for all the SUV's and trucks. Why is the rear axle right behind the cab? With as much rear hangover behind the axle, before you finally get to the rear bumper, I would think that would put undo pressure on the truck frame when pulling a heavy load. And I don't like how straight up and down the rear seat is on the Extended cab or the new crew cab. You would think that an extra 4 inches would do wonders for
how long you could ride in the back seat.

Any way back to your question. If you request a quote threw the Ford Buyer Connection, it will be sent to the nearest Ford dealer near your Zip Code. You can get the Ford F250 your looking for from $500 to $1000 over invoice. You may have to order the truck to get the 5.4L V-8. Most dealers will be stocking the V-10's and Power Stroke diesels. On the truck you're describing, a F-250 XLT Super Cab short bed 4x4 with the 5.4L V-8 and 5-speed manual will actually cost around $100 less than a Ford F150 equipped
the same way. Because the F-150 5.4L V-8 only comes with an automatic, which costs more. And with the F-250 you get a full-floating rear axle. Which means twice as many bearings in the rear axle. The cab is bigger and the box is bigger. The F-250 also is the only full size pickup truck you can buy with part-time 4x4, my favorite. The F150 has a live front axle like Chevy, Dodge and
Toyota.

The reason that most truck manufactures match their biggest engines with an automatic transmission's is, #1, they had to take the Asbestos out of the clutches, #2, the computer's on board do the shifting and they do not know how to slip a clutch, #3, the torque converters double the torque coming from the flywheel and #4, the newer automatic transmissions have a lock up torque converter, so they lock up mechanically like a clutch and pressure plate. Every year higher percentages of automatic transmissions are sold. Some day in the future I wouldn't be surprised if a manual transmission will become an order only option on new trucks. I can also help you get your new F250 or Tundra. Thanks Kent (MrTruck)

#1---Original Message-----
From: Ron P.
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 6:37 PM
To: kent@mrtruck.net
Subject: Information Needed

Kent, I tried to sign onto your guestbook and listed the below comment.  When I tried to submit it came back with an indication that I was not allowed on that page.  Anyway . . . thought I’d try this! 

Kent, I have a 1976 Chevy 3/4 ton 4X4 with the 400 cid engine and auto tranny.  I bought the truck new and it has only has 50,000 miles on it and runs great. However, I'm a bit concerned about the dual saddlebag gas tanks . . . they are apparently known to catch on fire or blow up during crashes . . . GMC has sent me a $1,000 check to use if I purchase a new GMC product.  Do you know of any way to either make these tanks safe or to replace them with another gas tank?  I've thought about buying the new Chevy diesel pickup . . . but am not excited about the aluminum heads . . . had those in a couple of Peugeot cars many years ago and they were always blowing head gaskets.  I'll eventually be pulling a 34' Holiday Rambler trailer (has an aluminum frame and weighs around 8,000 lbs. loaded I think).  Thanks for the help! . . . Ron P.

Thanks again,

Ron P.

"Hi Ron, Thanks for reading my web site. The Sir Cam virus as caused problems to my site. I correct them when I find them. Thanks for pointing out the guestbook. I had a 77 Chevy C30 with dual tanks. I lined up my 500-gallon fuel tanks on the farm so I could drive in the middle and fill both tanks without running the hose under or over. The concern I would have is the settlement GM had over those gas tank fires, with the government, might hinder you in the future if you were to have an accident. This might make it hard to even get help from your own insurance company in case of an accident. This would also hamper you from getting a shop to install different gas tanks. On my 1977 C30 Chevy, I put an 8 ½’ by 9’ steel flatbed. It had a recessed ball, headache rack and rear hitch. This was made of heavy channel iron and deck plate. It was stronger than any part of the truck. It weighed 1000 #’s more than the factory bed. This was great as it took the bounce out of the truck when empty. My truck was a dually and back then an empty truck was like riding a basketball. You could use that GMC $1000 rebate to buy a new 2500 GMC with the 8.1L V-8 gas motor with the Allison Automatic. They have 0% interest on 36 months. And that large gas engine isn’t selling to well because of the gas mileage, so you should get an invoice deal plus the $1000 off from the settlement. If you can afford that option, you would be getting 4-wheel disc brakes, fuel injection, a quieter cab and probably the same gas mileage you are getting now. Your 8000# trailer shouldn’t hurt the tranny or the truck. You’ll enjoy filling up the gas tank from one side too! For a limited time GM is offering 4.9% interest on used trucks too. All these great options. Good Luck MT" 

Kent, I appreciate the information.  I was hoping to get something that got a little better mileage than the old ’76 . . . I’m lucky to get 8-9 mpg on that rig when pulling something and not much difference when running empty . . . can almost see the fuel gauge going down!  Have you heard if the diesel does much better . . . if I wait a few months maybe they’ll get the “bugs” out?  I assume that the standard 6000 gas would get better mileage but it might be a little light for my trailer?  Although, most of my towing will be with a fishing/cruising boat that weighs about 4000 lbs.  Thanks . . . Ron 

 Hi Ron, with 4000#’s of trailer you would be fine with the 6.0L, V-8 gas and the Duramax diesel on an empty truck should get 18 to 20 mpg. But the smaller 6.0L gas engine should get 15 mpg with a higher rear axle. My 77 Chevy C30 had and 454 cu and a 455 rear axle. I too could watch the gas gauge go down. Good Truckin, MT

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